Method of making shoes



B. JORGENSEN. .METHOD OF MAKING SHOES. APPLICATION FILED'MAR. 5, 1918.

Patented Apr. 25, 1922.

directly together or to an insertion'of jsimi lar material-extend ng for a port on at least entrans rarss rarest ferr es.

i IBERNI-IARDT zrone snsnlvfor nnvnnny, MASSACHUSETTS; ssfe-non Townes SHOE MACHINERY conronarron, or ra'rnnson, new JERSEY, ALKCQR'PORA- TION on NEW JERSEY;

T 0 all whom it may concern Be it known that I, BERNHARDT JonGEN- SEN, a subject of the King of Denmark, residing at Beverly, in the county of Essexand State of Massachusetts, have inventedfcer tain Improvements in Methods of Making Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures. v

This invention relates to methods of making shoes, and in one aspect relates more partioularly to methods of manufacture in which the side-lasting operation is performed prior to the toe-lasting operation as, for example, in the manufacture of a certain type of shoe in which the upper consists of felt material, the term side-lasting being used herein with particular reference to the operation of conforming the upper to the forepart of the last at the rear of the toe portion, which may include more or less lateral stretching of the upper. In many of its aspects, however, the invention is not con fined to methods involving this particular sequenceof operations nor restricted to the manufacture of felt shoes.

Inthe manufacture of felt shoes of the type above referred toit is the usual practice to cut the upper of sufficient size to permit its lower marginal portion to be extended 111- Ward at the bottom of the shoe 1n such manner as to serve to a greater or less extent as an insole, and before the shoe is mounted on a last to stitch-the bottom edges of the opposite side portions of the upper either of the distance lengthwise of the shoe. The upper is then dampened and a last ls'inserted to stretch and forrn the material in lasted shape. In accordance with the usual 13171013106.

and for the best results the bottom edges of the material in the toe portlonof-the shoe are left free and unsecured until after the last has been inserted, after whichtlns por-.

tion of the shoe, while damp, is shapedby a toe lasting operation. i

The operation of lasting the toe of such a shoe must be performed with-due regard to the eculiar conditions resultin from the METHOD or MAKING SHOES."

. Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Ayn- 25; 1922 tAp plication'fi1ed March 5, 1918. Serial ire-220 l I of thetoe portion where the shoe is already side-lasted the upper is stretched across the last, or laterally,,to its finalshape, and. .in a less degree the upper at the sides andover the top'ofthe toe is likewise stretched later ally by reason of its connection to the stretched portion, At the toe end ofthelast, however, the upper isin a substantially unstretched condition, and in lasting 'the toe it is therefore desirableto pull this portion of the upper to some extent .over thelast. This operation, however, and also theoperation of laylng the margin of the upper over the bottom of the last, must. be so performed as to avoid distorting the previously side lasted portion of the shoe'and also to avoid crowding any portion .of the unsecured margin back over the side-lasted portion on the mare gin of the last bottom. -It-ha's been the prac tice heretofore to grip different portions of the unsecuredfmargin of the upper insuccesflatten the Stock down upon the margin of the last at the toe, a plurality of blows are then delivered on the stock with a hammer. After the stock has dried and set in permanent shape the tacks are removed, the up standing edges of the upper at the toe end are trimmed Oil, and an outsole is stitched to the shoe;

The toe lasting operation performed inthe manner above described 1s not only slow but is frequently productive of unsatisfactory r'e-i sults.' It is very ditficult, in pulling over" and securing difi'erent portions of the stock in succession, and particularly in pulling the portlons at the sides of the toe, to effect uniform lasting and toavoid, on the one hand, distorting the previously side-lasted portions back of the toe and, on the other hand, producing one or more pleats or folds in the stock so pronounced as to extend out near the edge of the shoe in the portion to which theoutsole' is to be stitched. Such'a fold in the: margin near the edge of the shoe is likely to becut when the upstanding edge of the upper is a pull or of rupturing it by the blows delivered over the margin of the last bottom for flattening the margin.

One important object of this invention, among others, is to provide an improvement in methods of making shoes involving particularly the operation of shaping the toe portion of the shoe to the lastyto the end that the difficulties heretofore encountered in the manufacture of shoes of the kind above referred to, for example, may be avoided and uniform lasting of the toe portion of the shoe may be effected in an expeditious and otherwise satisfactory manner. In one aspect the invention provides for wiping inward uniformly over the margin of the bottom of a last different portions of the margin of the upper at the toe of the shoe with respectively different pressures, these pressures, in the case of a shoe previously side-lasted, being proportioned as between the end and the sides of the toe with reference to the different degrees of stretch ing required in different portions of the stock and with a view to avoiding displacement of the previously lasted portionback of the toe. It is also contemplated, in one aspect of the method, that the wipin action on the stock shall be effected with a substantial component of wiping pressure directed laterally of the shoe at the end as I well as at the corners and sides of the toe,

thus causing the inner free edge of the margin to be gathered within a comparatively small area and in the case of a previously side-lasted shoe insuring against crowding the material at the sides of the toe portion back over the portion previously side-lasted.

Preferably the wiping pressures and the directions of the wipe on different portions of the stock are so determined as to produce a uniformly fiat margin round the toe while leaving the inner free edges of the stock at the sides of the toe upstanding and so disposed, as the result of a substantially direct wipe inward from the side edges of the last, as to extend in directions lengthwise of the shoe, the wiping being so effected, moreover, as to cause the remainder of the free inner edge of the upper at the toe end to be gathered substantially between the upstanding edges at the sides. In the case of ashoe having an insertion secured by seams to the edges of the upper, these upstanding side edges of the stock will preferably be so located as to extend substantially from the ends of the seams toward the toe end of the shoe. WVhile the upper may be secured temporarily in lasted position in different ways, it is preferred to secure it by fastenings such as tacks driven respectively at the outer sides of the upstanding side edges of the stock and by one or more additional tacks driven in front of the intermediate gathered portion of the edge. e

In a further aspect the invention contemplates pulling the upper at the toe end of the last prior to the final lasting Offtl'lt) margin. In the illustrative practice ofthe method it is preferred togrip a portion of the margin at the toe end of comparatively small extent widthwise ofthe shoe and by pulling in this location to stretch lengthwise of the shoe the toe portion of'the'upper, and

insome degree also, in the case of a previ- J ously side-lasted shoe, the portion already vstretched transversely of the last over the top ofthe forepart, leaving the portions at the sides of the toe substantially free from lateral. pulling tension, and then to 'draw,

the gripped portion of the upper inward over the bottom of the last.

stretched as to require no local pulling, the

subsequent overwiping of the stock being der- 7 pended upon to tension the upper in some degree at the sides and'corners of the toe sufficiently to render the condition of the stock uniform. An important advantage in thus manipulating the stock in such manner as to eliminate any necessity for pulling it at the sides of the toe is that the danger of displacing the side-lasted portion by such pulling action is avoided. The drawing of the gripped portion of the up'per inward from the end of the toe as above described contributes beneficially to the subsequent gathering of the intermediate portion of the free edge of the upper between theupstanding edges at the sides of the toe, since the material, particularly if dampened, tends to retain its overdrawn position even after it is released and thus to project backwardly between portions subsequently wiped inward from the sides. Such release of the gripped I portion is effected preferably before any overwiping of the margin of the upper'takesplace, since 1t is desirable that all-portions of the margin have a normal degree of tension at the time of the overwiping action, both in order to insure uniformity ofeffect at all portions of the margin and also to avoid undue strain upon any portion of the it in its tensioned condition, and this object may be. conveniently attained by pressing itgainst the upper on the toe end face of the ast. Y

In order to assist in of the invention there is shown in the accompanying drawings certain apparatus which maybe used with advantage in practising the novel method, but it should'be understood that the invention is not dependent upon the use of the apparatus shown or of any articular apparatus. It should'alsobe understood thatvalthough the invention is herein described as adapted particularly for use in the manufacture of a specific kind of shoe, the invention in many of its aspects is not necessarily restricted to the manufacture of the particular type of shoe described. The drawings show, by way of example, portions of a machine devised for carrying out the novel method of this invention, this machine being more fully shown and described and the novel features thereof claimed in aco-pending application, Serial No. 220 4:89, filed contemporaneously herewith. nly such portions ofthe machine as it is necessary to refer to for an understand ing of the method are illustrated in the draw ings, and the construction of the parts shown need be described herein only very briefly. In the drawings,

Fig. 1 shows in side elevation a toe gripper and toe lasting wipers and tackers in their relation to a felt shoe of the kind hereinbefore referred to, and illustrates the step of gripping and pulling on the margin of the upper atthe toe end tostretch a portion of cally, to a greater or vless extent, as an in sole, for the shoe. The inturnediportions' the upper lengthwise and over the toe of the es 7 I v Fig. 2 showsthe gripper still in'engagement with the upper but pulling it inward or backward over the bottom of the last,-and shows also a member pressing against the upper on the toe end face of the last in position to hold the upper tensioned after the gripper has released the margin,

Fig. 3 shows thegripper released andthe wipers closed up into substantial conformity to the lateral contour of thetoe end of the shoe before they havebegun to wipe the stock over the bottom of the last,

Fig. l shows the wipers fully closed, and i Fig. 5 shows-theshoe with its toe lasted and secured by themethod of this invention.

Inthe manufacture of a felt'shoe of the type illustrated the upper, as above explained, is cut of suflicient size to permit portions to be turned inward at the bottom of the shoe, -the;inturned portions of the completed shoe lying between the outsole and the wearers-foot and serving practimay extend. as far as the longitudinal median line of the bottom of the shoe, and in such explaining the nature case the lower edges of the upper. are stitched directly; together as far forwardly as a point 'near the: toe end of the shoe be fore the shoe is mounted on a last. Alternatively, asin the shoe shown in the drawings, the upper may be cut smaller, particularly at the forepart, and apiece a of material similar to that of the upperfinserted between and stitched to the edges of; the upper to secure them together. An advantage of this courseis that the inserted piece,"which finally is to be covered by thesole, may-beefinferior material and thus may. contribute to economy in the manufacture of the shoe If the shoe is made in this mann'erthe upper is out large enough to permit the seams b by whichit is attached tothe inserted. piece to scribed, thus leaving the-margin of the upper stock free and unsecured at the toe. H

,After the parts have been cut and stitched as above described, the shoe is dampened in order to temper the stock and render it readily moldable, and the shoe is then mounted on a last. "The'parts are so proportioned as to size that the insertion ofthe last serves tostretch the stock to such an extent as to cause all portions, except-the unsecured toe will be evidentrthat' with the last thus in-j serted the connected portions oft-the stock backof the toe part are stretched to,the' ir final shape transversely of the last anda considerable degree of longitudinal stretching also is effected by the last, while portions part, to be conformed closely to the last. It

in the toe partadj acent tothe stretched por tion are also stretched to someextentby rea'& son of their connection tothestretched portion. r

In accordance with the present method, as practised with the aid of themechanism herein shown, the shoe, while thestock is still damp or after it'has been again dampened at the toe end, is presented in engagement with a bottom rest 2 and a comparatively small portion of the margin of "the upper at thetoe endis gripped andpulled-by means ofatoe, gripper 4.; This serves to stretch a portion of the upper. which by reason .of its remo.teness from the portion llO' previously stretched by the insertion of the the portions at the sidesof the toe, by reason of their connection to the portion pulled by the gripper 4 and to the previously sidelasted portion, will usually require no local pulling. It will be evident,moreover, that the pull at the toe end serves also to produce an additional lengthwise stretching of the previously stretched portion at thetop ofthe forepart. WVhen the gripper 4 is operated the bottom rest 2 is rocked downward by a cam 8 to assist the operation of the gripper and a heel rest 10 is moved up into support ing relation to the heel end of the shoe, and while the parts are thus positioned side arms 12 are swung inward from opposite sides of the shoe to bring shoe supporting and holding devices into engagement with the shoe backward over the bottom of the last] The arm 14 carries wiper plates 16 which are pivoted at 18 and are connected by links 20 (Fig. 4) to levers 22 pivotally mounted on the wiper support, the inner ends of these levers being engaged by a slide 24 and oper-' atively connected to springs 26 which tend to position the parts with the wipe-rs fully open. Carried by the slide 24: is an abutment 28, and in the position of the-parts illustrated by F ig; '2 this abutment has been carried into engagement with "the upper on the toe end face of the last. During the con tinued inward movement of the arm 14 the abutment 28 and the slide 24 remain stat-ionaryv by reason of the engagement of the abutment with the shoe, and as the arm continues itsmovement the levers 22 are caused to fulcrum on the slide and to swing the wipers 16 inwardly, meanwhile further tensioning the springs 26 and causing the abutment. 28 to bear with increasing pressure against the shoe in such manner as to hold the upper inits tensioned condition irrespective of continued engagement of the gripper jaws with the margin. i By the time the wipers 16 have been ad vanced and closed into substantial com. formi'ty to the lateral contour of the shoe, as shown in Fig. 1'3,but preferably before they have begun to wipe the stock over the bottom of thelast, the gripper 4: is' caused to'release its hold {upon the stock by the tripping of a latch'device 30. At this time the gripper has advanced far enough over the bottom of the last 'to .pulli 'the inter mediate part of the margin of the upper'back at a comparatively small angle to the bot tom of the last. The abutment 28 is now in position to "prevent the tension o'f the upper from relaxing, and the wipers begin to close 'uniformly over the last bottom at the sides before their wiping action begins, theyjnow become immediately effective to wipe the upper inward at the sides of the shoe at the time that they also begin to advance over the toe end of theshoe, the effectiveness of the wipers in directions laterally of the shoe ascompared with their wiping actionlengthwise of the shoe being further insured by positioning the pivot 18 at a considerable distance back of the wiping-edges, asshown, as well as by the character of'the operating connections for the wipers. Thetendency of the wipers consequently isto gather all portions of the margin of the'upper inward laterally of the toe portion of the shoe. Since the intermediate portion of the margin of the upper has already been drawn back ward by the gripper into a position which, by reason of its dampened condition, it tends to retain after the gripper is released, the wipers serve to wipe the upper'from the sides of the toe part inward toward this intermediate portion and finally form pleats or folds in the free edge of the'upper presenting lateral upstandingportions d (Fig. 5)

positioned substantially in front of the ends of theseams 6 while other portions of the free edge of the upper, including one or more rearwardly extending folds e, are

gathered between these lateral upstanding portions. The wipers are closed laterally for the reason that close tonthe previously stretched and secured portion back of the toe less stretchingis necessary in the toe lasting operation and also because of the need for avoiding displacement of the previously stretched portion. This object is attained by beveling the shoe engaging faces of the wipers at'their end portions, as indicated at 32, thus causing these portions to'press more lightly upon-the stock. The'swinging movement of the arm 14;, and the means for positioning the shoe including the adjustable shoe engaging finger 34L on't'he bottom rest 2, may also be utilized in co-operation to contribute to the same resultby causing the 7 ends of the wipers to" incline upward-slightly from the shoe bottom in their final position.

rived at this position tacks hold-the' margin in'place. referably'two of these tacks qare located attheflouter sides of the lateral upstanding folds d, substan tially in lineiwith the seams b, with one or more additional tacks in front of the intermediate gathered portion. The tacks are driven by tackers 36, the twoside'tackers being mounted for swinging movement withthe wipers and connected to the wipers by studs 38 to cause them to be swung inward itsv by the movement of the wipers for driving the tacks in the correct relation to the wiping edges. a r After the shoe has been lasted as above explained, it is permitted to dry in order to set the materialin permanent shape. The toe tacks'are then removed, the upstandin edge of the upper at the toe is "trimmed o and an outsole is stitched to the shoe.

It will be evident that by the method herein described the upper is stretched and shaped to the last at the toe uniformly at all portions of the toe and the margin of the upperis molded down fiatupon'the bottom' of the lastto produce a smooth surface for the reception of the sole. without any pronounced folds which might be'a'ccidentally cut at the time when theupstanding gathered edge is trimmed offyand it-Wlll' also be evident that the operatiOnprOduces. a lasted toe portion which mergessmoothly with the" previously side-lasted portion-back. of the toe." The'uniformity of the work 'also re sults inthe requirement of fewer tacks for holding the margin in lasted-position than have been required heretofore, and this not only saves tacks but also avoids the rapid wear of the last which is the well known result of driving repeatedly a large number of tacks in this location.

It will be understood from the foregoing description that in some'aspects this inven-' tion provides a method of particular utility in the manufacture of shoes of felt material irrespective of whether the side lasting is performed prior-to the toelasting, while in other aspects the utility of the invention is not in anyway dependent upon the character of the material of which the shoe may i v tone or more folds between said side folds [directed rearwa'rdly, and then driving fasbe made.- 1 w Having explained the nature of the invention and set forth fully, how it may be practised, what I claimas new and desire to secure by Letters States is: a a H 1 1. That improvement in; methods of mak- 'side edges.

Patent of the United.

previously side-lasted portion than .at. a the end of;the toe, and then securing-the toe portion of the upperin lasted position i 2. That improvement in methods ofrmaks ing shoes which consists; in side-lasting the.

shoe, andthen wiping-the margin; of the upper round the toe inward over the bottom of the last-with lesseffective wipingrprese.

sure upon the stock at the'sides of the toe" adjacent to the previously side l'asted portionthan at the endofthe toeand with wiping pressures directed at allpoints lat-1 erally ofthe shoe.

3. That improvement in methods of inaking shoes which consists-insecuring together the bottom edges of the opposite side por tions of an upperalong the forepart at the rear of the toe, then inserting a last in the upper to" stretch laterally. and conform to the lastthe secured portions at thev rear of toe substantially free from lateral pullto' prevent distorting the previously stretched portion at the rear of the toe, fand then wiping the margin of the upper inwardly theisides of the toe and fa'steningit.

4. The improvement in methods of mak-- ing shoes which consistsin side-lastinglthe' V shoe, subsequently wiping the-"marginof i the upper inward joverthebottom oflthe last at the opposite sides ofzthe'toe substantially simultaneously to form at the innerportionof said margin upstanding edges extending from the previously "side-lasted portion of". the upper in a direction toward the toe end;

of the shoe, and wiping the marginofthe upper at the toe endwof the shoe over the bottom of the last andrgathering its inner.

over the bottom of the last at the end and edge substantially between said'upstanding- 5. That improvement'in methods of mak ing shoes which consists in side-lastingithe shoe, subsequently wiping the marginof the upper inward overythe bottom of thelast at theend and thesides of the toe with pressures so directed as to form upstanding.

folds inltheinner edge :of-isaid margin-directed forwardly atthe sides ofthe shoe from said previously side-lasted portion and teningssubstantially 'at the. outer sides of lasted position;

ing shoes which consists in wiping the mar said side folds and one-or more fastenings infront of the folds to secure the'upperin of the last round the itoefywith pressuresl so directed. as to form at the-inner-edge of "said margln-at thesides of-thetde upstanding 5 gin of the upperiinward overthe bottom of the shoeand to gather-the intermediate portion of the; margin substantially between said upstanding'tolds at the sides, and then securingthe toe portion of the upper in lasted position. 1 1 I 7': Thatimprovement in methods 'of mak- 'ingshoeswhich consists in side-lasting the shoe wipin'g the margin of the upper inwardo'v'erthe bottomot the lastat-the sides of. the'toe to-form. at the inner. edge of the marginfolds extending forwardly toward the toeend withoutoverlapping the previously side-lasted port-ion back of the toe, and

'wiping the-margin. of the upper at the toe 15 end. over the: bottom. of the last. with a greater degree olt efi'ective pressure'on the stock than that applied at the sides and with wiping pressuresidirected at all points laterally oi; the shoe to gather the intermediate portion of the free edge of the upper substantially between said folds.

8.. That improvement in methods of malt ing'shoes'which consists in side-lasting the shoe,:subsequently gripping at the toe end ofthelast a; portion of the upper and pulling: it wh-ileleaving tree the margin oh the upper at; the-sides of the toe, and then wiping-the marginotv theupper uniformlyin- 'ward oven-the bottomiofthe last round'the s01 toe-as far-hack as the previously sideela'sted portion'by pressures sov differentiated be I tween-the end and the sides of the toe as to 'Wipe thestock in-unitormly while avoiding displacement: of the plreviously lasted portion of the upper... J 1

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes. which consists in side-lasting the 7 shoe, pulling the upper at the toeend of the last in tensioned condition wipingthe margin of the upper inward over the bottom of the last at the end and the sides of the toe as far back as the side-lasted portion with wiping pressures directed at'all' points laterally of the shoe.

11. That improvement inmethods of'mak,

ing shoes which consists in gripping at the toe endiofz the last a portion Of the upper :of

comparatively narrow extentwidthwise of the shoe and pulling the upper,ipressing against? the upper onathe end face of the last to. retainit in tensioned condition and releasingthej pull: on' the upper, and then While retaining; the upper at the end of the last inJlasted position.

in tensioned: condition wiping the margin of the upper-inward over the bottom of the last-round the'toe with wiping pressures 'di-- rected'at-all points lateral-ly of the-shoe. p 12.; That improvement inmethods of making shoes which consists in side-lasting the;

shoe, gripping. the margin of the-:upperjatz the; toe endiot the last; and pullingit, engag, ing the upper-on the lateral-surface of? the; last to=hold itin its tensioned condition and releasing'the margin, and then wi pingthe;

margin of the upper inward: over. thebottom of the last with less wipingpressureiat thesides. of the toe adjacent. tothe previously 7 I lasted portionthan at the endotthe toe.

- 13. That improvement in methods otmale ing shoes which consists in side-lasting the shoe, gripping; and pulling, at the toe end of the last; a portion of the margin of the upper l of comp ar atively narrowextent widthwise otthe shoe toistretch the up'per,drawing said gripped portion of the upper'inward oversthe ,bottom-ofth'e last, wiping over, the bottom or thQylEtSt the margin of the upper atthe sides and; the corners or" the toe and: said; overdrawn; portion at the end. ofthe toeto form inthe edgeof the up per folds extending forwardly at-th'e sides of said overdnawn portion and one or more folds between saidside foldsextendingrearupper; in; l lstedjpositiomf- 1 '1 15L That improvement in methods ofmak ingi, shoes'which consists inggrippiilg and pulling; a pontionfofl the marginoit the upper 4 atlthe toe end of the last to stretch the upper, i

- wardl-y; and securing the ,toe "portion of. the

pressing theupper against the toe end face of the last to. hold: it in, stretched condition, drawing the margin'of the upper at the toe end of: the last inwardzover the bottomof the last and then releasing it, tI1Cl tft6IYl3l16rII1fiI-. gin of the upper has been releasedatthe toe wiping the margin uniformly inward from the edgeof the last bottom at the end and sides or" the toe bypressures directed at all" pointslaterally of theshoe and securing it 15. That improvementin methodsofmak- "ing felt shoes which consists in. side-lasting the shoe, subsequently gripping and pulling a portion of the margin ofthe upper at the toe end of the last while indampened condition to stretch the upper, engaging the upper to hold it in: stretched condition and releasing the margin, andthen wiping the 'margin t upper u mly inward over' (the bottom of he lastroundthe toe as :t'ar

back as the previously side-lasted portion with pressures so directedas to gather the free edge' ot-the end portion of the upper substantially between portions wiped in from. the-sides of the'to'ev I 16. That improvement in methods o fmak ing 'felt shoes which consists in dampening the? upper, gripping the margin ofthe upper at the toe end of the last and pulling it to stretch the upper, drawing the pulled margin inward over the bottom of the last, pressing against the upper on the toe end face of the last to hold it in stretched condition and then releasing the margin, and after the margin is released wiping it inward over the bottom of the last, uniformly round the toe by pressures directed at all points laterally of the shoe and with less effective wiping pressure at the sides of the toe than at the end of the toe.

17 That improvement in methods of making felt shoes which consists in securing the opposite side portions of the upper to a bottom piece by seams positioned to extend along the bottom of the shoe in locations spaced inwardly from the side edges of the last, then wiping the margin of the upper inwardly over the bottom of the last at the opposite sides of the toe substantially simultaneously to form at the inner portion of said margin upstanding edges extending lengthwise of the shoe substantially in front of the ends of said seams, gathering other portions of the unsecured margin at the toe between said upstanding side edges, and securing the toe portion of the upper in lasted position.

18. That improvement in methods of making felt shoes which consists-in-securing the opposite side portions of theyup'per to a bottom piece by seams positioned to extend along the bottom of the shoe in locations spaced inwardly from the side edges ofthe last, then gripping and pulling the upper over the toe of the last and inwardly over the bottom of the last by engagement with a portion of the margin of the upper at the end of the toe, wiping the unsecured portion of the upper inward over the bottom of the last uniformly round the toe to gather the unsecured edge of the upper within an area substantially between the ends of said seams, and securing the toe portion of the upper in lasted position.

19. That improvement in methods of making felt shoes which consists in dampening the upper, gripping the margin of the upper at the toe end of the last and pulling it to stretch the upper, drawing the pulled mar gin inward over the bottom of the last, pressing against the upper on the toe end face of the last to hold it in stretched condition and then releasing the margin, and after the margin is released wiping it from the edge of the last bottom inward uniformly round the toe.

20. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting an upper into conformity to the forepartof a lastat the rear of the toe, thereafter pulling the upper over the end of the toe of the last ing tension and then working the margin of the upper inwardly over the bottom of the last uniformly round the end and along the sides of the toe and fastening it in lasted position. I

21. That improvement in methods of main ing shoes which consists in stretchin an upper laterally and lasting it over the forepart of a last at the rear of the toe, thereafter pulling the upper at the end of the toe only to stretch it lengthwise and draw it over the end face of the last without distorting the previously lasted portion at the rear of the toe, and then wiping the margin of the upper over the bottom of the last i it at the end of the toe,pressing against the toe endface of the shoe to hold the-upper andthen releasing'the margin, and gathering and wiping the upper inwardly round the end and along the sides of the toe and fastening it.

I 23. That improvement in methods of mak- 1 ing shoes which consists in side-lasting the shoe at the rear of the toe, thereafter gripping the upper at the end of the toe only and pulling it'first heightwise of the last and then'rearwardly over the bottom of the last, wiping the margin of the upper inward uniformly round the end and along the sides of the toe to gather. it'in front of the previously lasted portion, and then fastening the toe portion of the upper in lasted position. i

24:. That improvementin methods of malli ing shoes which consists in side-lastlng the shoe at the rear of the toe, thereafter pulling the upper over the toe end of the last,

and then gathering and wiping the margin of the upper inwardly over the bottom of the last round the end and along the sides of the toe with wiping pressures directed at all points laterally of the shoe.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification. Y a

BERNHARDT JORGENSEN; 

